We really got used to these wonderful Frühstücke (breakfasts) on this bike trip. In some European countries — Italy, France, Spain, for example — breakfast is a minor meal, often just a small pastry and even smaller cup of coffee. But the hotels we were booked into on this bike trip (in German-speaking countries) really poured it on with big buffets of breads, pastries, sliced meats, cheeses, cereal, fruit, and often cooked eggs and sausage or bacon. If you choose right, you can eat a lot and still eat healthy. We usually didn’t need to eat much for lunch on the trail. (We both actually lost a few pounds on this trip!)
The fouth day’s bike route took us from Lindau, Germany, through the western tip of Austria, and into Switzerland.
Schrebergärten
The Radweg (bikepath) often runs alongside rail lines. Riding southeast from Lindau, we went past an area that had a long row of small huts along the tracks, each with a little garden area, where people had various things planted — flowers, shrubs, vegetables, etc. Some were tidy and cute, while others . . . well they kind of looked like a shack next to the railroad tracks.
Finally we stopped and asked a man to explain what these were. He told us they’re called Schrebergarten. They are small plots of land owned by the railroad that people who generally live in cities or more populated areas rent for a relatively small fee. Some people just come out and spend the day with their plants while others spend nights in their little cabin. It’s a summer outdoor getaway option for those who might not have yards or gardens where they live.
The idea dates back to the 1860s, and the plots are named after Dr. Moritz Schreber, a University professor specializing in Children’s health, who strongly believed that children who lived in cities would be healthier if they were able to get outdoors and out into the country. Here’s a nice blog post by “German Girl in America” about the history and purpose of these little villages.
The border isn’t what it used to be. When biking from one EU country to another, you have to be paying attention or you don’t even realize when you’re crossing an international border. Here, Karen stops as she leaves Germany and enters Austria (Österreich).
Near Bregenz, Austria
Bregenz - a vibrant Austrian city on the Bodensee
The annual Performing Arts Festival in Bregenz (Bregenzer Festspiele) is a very big deal. The Vienna Symphony Orchestra and the Opera are the main attractions, making use of a large floating stage that is transformed each year into the set of a different opera production. (You can see the irregular line of the stage for Puccini’s Madame Butterfly to the right of the seating area in the photo above.)
The famous Bregenz floating stage set included a giant animated clown head for the 2019 production of Puccini’s Rigoletto. That year’s opera was the backdrop for an episode of “Murder by the Lake.
We first learned about Bregenz about 3 years ago. We watch a lot of European TV shows (especially murder mysteries) and the Bregenz festival and opera are the setting for one of the more memorable episodes of “Murder on the Lake” (Die Toten vom Bodensee).
The opera stage was also featured in a pivotal scene in the 2008 James Bond film, Quantum of Solace.
Bregenz is a lively city on the lake, with a definite international festival vibe. Although we were only there for a couple of hours, you can tell it’s a place that always has a lot going on.
The waterfront is the hub of activity with many types of watercraft to hop on and get on the lake. Everything from paddleboards to giant excursions boats that look like they could take you on an ocean cruise are available.
A funky Gelateria on wheels.
Bregenz, Austria
Bregenz — Now that’s a boat!
Shortly after leaving Bregenz, the Ragweg passes through a variety of terrain, including farms, ranches and some wildlife preserve areas. Watch this video (starring Karen, The Goat Whisperer) for a glimpse of all of this.
You don’t have to bike into the Alps to enjoy the views.
The Rhine River flows into Lake Konstanz from the distant mountains.
Switzerland, near the town of Rorshach (no test required).
Rorshach — Flowers everywhere.
Rorshach
Will there be room at the inn?
We had beautiful weather all day, but as we neared Arbon, Switzerland, our destination for the night, ominous clouds were moving in. It began to rain just as we made it to the Römerhof Hotel. This historic hotel is actually two very cool old buildings (dating back to the 1500s!) kind of oddly surrounded by modern buildings. We were excited about staying at this unique place.
But there was one problem. The parking lot was empty and the door was locked. We called the number for the hotel, but were greeted with a rather lengthy recording — 95% of which I couldn’t understand. I left a phone message saying that we were booked at the hotel we were waiting by the door. It was a Sunday night and we had no idea if anyone was even listening to the messages. I then called the tour company. They didn’t answer either, so I also left a message there.
After a few minutes, the rain drops turned to a shower. We wedged ourselves and our bikes under a small portico at the hotel entrance. As the shower erupted into a torrential downpour, we began to think about the logistics of possibility having to find another hotel for the night.
Then a Radweg-Reisen van drove up with our bags. The driver didn’t know anything about why the hotel was locked and said they were going to drop our bags off and leave. We said, “Hey . . . wait a minute!” (or something to that effect).
To make a long story . . . well, less long . . . everything worked out. The person who was supposed to answer the phone called back and gave us the code to get in the door. Turned out we were the only people staying at the hotel that night. It was technically closed, but they make exceptions for the bike tour company.
We stayed at the Römerhof Hotel in Arbon, built in 1567!!!
Not one, but TWO cannons on the patio. We felt safe from invaders from the lake.
This is the view the ghosts have from above the stairway.
“Ahnold” the noisy neighbor
We brought our bikes inside and down to the basement during the rain and hail storm. A little later, Karen went down to get some things from the saddle bags. Since we were the only people staying in the building, she was surprised to hear someone making noise down the hall. It was the restaurant’s chef, Gerald, who had stopped by to check on some things.
As they chatted, Gerald told Karen that he lived close by. When he found out she was American, he lit up and said, “You might know my next door neighbor. He’s a California Governor.” She said, “Gavin Newsom?” Gerald told her that Arnold Schwarzenegger owns a place next to him. He said that he sometimes makes a lot of noise in his garage. One day, before he knew it was Arnold, he went over to talk to him about the it. Karen asked him if he confronted Arnold about the noise. Gerald answered in a not-surprisingly natural Arnold accent, “No . . . I did not want to get terminated.”
We walked around a very quiet Arbon in the subsiding rain, looking for a place to eat dinner.
Some food and some new friends
We needed to eat something for dinner. The restaurant Gerald suggested was closed, as were many others. (a Sunday night before the summer season) We wandered back to a kebab shop we had seen lit up earlier. As we were reading the overhead menu, the woman in front of us in line offered some suggestions and helped with translation. We began chatting and continued after her take-out order was handed to her. Christine joined us at a table and pulled french fries from a bag she was supposed to be bringing home to share with her husband. We kept eating and talking . . . and about an hour later, her husband walked into the restaurant, shouting, “There you are!” Then, Dieter sat down and started talking also. We discussed everything — world politics, our economies, health care, US vs Swiss quality of life. Dieter went and got a map and they showed us places to go in various parts of Switzerland.
Chistine and Dieter, joined by the cheerful and friendly young woman who was working at the Kebab Shop
Eventually, Dieter became understandably hungry and wanted to eat his dinner at home as planned. But all four of us wanted to continue the conversation. So they offered to drive to Konstanz the next night and meet us for dinner after our next day’s ride, which would be our fifth and final day on the trail. More about that in the next installment of 70 Fun Things @ 70.